Hokay. We were in Wisconsin for a week, back almost two weeks, and
I'm finally posting about it.
It was a family reunion, on my mother's side. Her parents both grew
up in Wisconsin, though the only close family living there now are my
mother's cousin (from Ohio), and my brother (from Massachusetts).
First, let's set the scene. We had two lake-side cottages (I-90 is on
the other side of the lake, and it's not a big lake, but at least the highway
is out of sight), sleeping between 19 and 25 people, depending on the
day. We're in Wisconsin Dells, a
gaudy tourist trap of theme parks, water parks, Adventure Golf™,
and other tourist crap. However, we're ½ mile off the strip,
which means we're deep in the woods.
My mother has two sisters, and between them they have 10 sons, 9 of
whom came for at least part of the week. We're not a terrribly close
family (I haven't seen some of the cousins for 25 years), but we've
all grown up to be fabulous people, and we all got along fabulously.
Really.
Wisconsin Dells has its attractions (most of which we avoided), but we
took two notable day trips. One was back down to Madison, to go
shopping at Penzeys Spices
(they're closed on Sunday, the day we arrived, and the day we'd be
leaving). Those of you who care already know (and those of you who
don't know, don't care), but we were excited to find out that Boston
is going to get the next Penzeys store (little dance of joy).
The other day trip was to The House on
the Rock, which defies description. Here's how it's described in
the Fodor's guide: Another curious architectural monument of the
Wyoming Valley is the House on the Rock, one of Wisconsin's top
tourist attractions through no fault of the original owner, Alex
Jordan, an artist with a penchant for collecting junk. The House on
the Rock is balanced on a dolomite outcropping overlooking the Wyoming
Valley, and is designed in a Japanese sytle, with Asian artifacts and
furniture throughout its tiny upper level. As you descend into the
bowels of the house, your feeling of claustrophobia will become ever
more pronounced. You pass enormous wooden clocks from Germany, huge
diesel engines that once powered ocean freighters, eerie orchestras
(powered by hydraulic lines) playing classical music badly, and
replicas of Main Street that have been abandoned by their inhabitants.
The tour descends through a maze of rooms in warehouse after
warehouse, until you reach the basement, where a gigantic
merry-go-round is careening almost out of control, its ceiling filled
with hundreds of wooden maidens, their breast pointing accusingly at
the visitors, who hope that the next corner will produce an exit and
fresh air. The tour is expensive and long, with no turning back once
the hordes are funnelled down the chute. How could you not want
to go there?
A less hyperbolic description is that it's a collection of
collections. Jordan's original collections were of glass paperweights
and antique firearms. But he also collected stained-glass lamps,
religious statuary, dolls and dollhouses, miniature circuses, and all
kinds of moving things, from steam tractors to metal banks to
turn-of-the-century jewelry store animatronic displays. But he had a
special thing for music boxes, player pianos, and mechanical
orchestras. They're literally all over the place. Pictures behind
the cut.
This was in the same town as Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin architecture
school, but we missed the last tour. Oh well.
The last outing was just down the road from the Dells, to the International Crane
Foundation, which has all 15 crane species on exhibit. The two
that are native to North America are the sandhill crane (the most
numerous) and the whooping crane (the most endangered). Most of the
cranes are kept from human contact, so that they can be re-introduced
to the wild, but a few are on exhibit. They had a yound couple of
whooping cranes, who had not laid an egg this year, but who had been
given a sandhill crane egg to see how they might make out as parents
(doting, as it turns out).
( Lots of pictures, mostly of House on the Rock )